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Cosmetics Throughout The Ages  

This LibGuide examines the makeup artist Lisa Eldridge and her fascination with the use, application, and relevance to society that cosmetics have had throughout the ages.
Last Updated: Aug 8, 2017 URL: Print Guide Email Alerts

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Beauty and Cosmetics, 1550-1950 - Sarah Jane Downing
ISBN: 0747808392
Publication Date: 2012-02-21
Exhibiting enormous power or inspiring incredible devotion, throughout history beauty has been women's chief asset. Each age has required its own standard - a gleaming white brow during the Renaissance, the black eyebrows considered charming in the early 18th century, or the thin lips thought desirable to the Victorians. For those naturally blessed, their beauty could ensure a good marriage, offer social mobility, fame or notoriety whereas those without such obvious gifts would resort to anyends to achieve an illusion of beauty. Ours is not the only age when beauty is celebrated but also judged and quantified. From the color of the ear to the transparency of the teeth the benchmark for every aspect of beauty has been set and women - and some men - have applied themselves wholeheartedly risking their lives using poisonous chemicals, their fortunes at the risk of blackmail, or the wrath of God, to reach the desired targets. From Queen Elizabeth I who used dangerous quantities of white lead to give her complexion the illusion of a youthful lustre, to Marilyn Monroe who blended 4 shades of lipstick to emphasise her perfect pout this book will examine some of the more unusual cosmetic practices contemplated in beauty's name.

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Classic Beauty - Gabriela Hernandez
ISBN: 0764336908
Publication Date: 2011-09-14
The definition of a beautiful face has never been constant. See how political and social climates have moulded accepted beauty rituals and the evolution of cosmetics from ancient times through today. This colourful reference book chronicles historic trends for the eyes, lips, and face, and offers in-depth aesthetic reviews of each decade from the 1920s to today. Follow the rich history of facial trends through fascinating and bizarre vintage ads; detailed makeup application guides; and profiles of famous makeup innovators, connoisseurs, and iconic faces. Over 430 images, timelines, and detailed vintage colour palettes show the changing definitions of beauty and document makeup innovations (the first mascara, lipstick, eye shadow, etc.) that have evolved throughout the history of cosmetics. This is an ideal reference for the professional makeup artist, cosmetologist, educator, student, and general makeup enthusiasts.

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Hello Gorgeous! - Rachel C. Weingarten
ISBN: 1933112182
Publication Date: 2006-05-01
Beginning in the 1940s, women's increased buying power allowed them the luxury of beautification, and beautify they did! Showcasing over 300 illustrated advertisements of the time, "Hello Gorgeous! looks at the products that became staples for generations of women, and set the standard for innovations in the industry. Everything from skin care to hair products, from razors to toothpaste were touted as the key to eternal youth and womanly appeal, and they're all here, from Camay to Prell to Lustre Crhme. The author's commentary explores the science, the stats, and the little-known secrets of the formative years of female beauty.

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Hope in a Jar - Kathy Peiss
ISBN: 0805055509
Publication Date: 1998-05-01
The first social history of American beauty culture: a richly textured account of how women created the cosmetics industry and how cosmetics created the modern woman How did Powder and Paint, once scorned as immoral, become indispensable to millions of respectable women? How did a Victorian "kitchen physic", as homemade cosmetics were called, become a multi-billion-dollar industry? And how did men finally take over that rarest of institutions, a woman's business? Drawing on a wealth of archival sources, historian Kathy Peiss uncovers a vivid history in which women, far from being pawns and victims, used makeup to declare their freedom, identity, and sexual allure as they flocked to enter public life. She highlights the leading role of white and black women -- Helena Rubenstein and Annie Turnbo Malone, Elizabeth Arden and Madame C. J. Walker -- in shaping a unique industry that relied less on advertising than on women's customs of visiting ("Avon calling") and conversation. From New York's genteel enameling studios to Memphis's straightening parlors, Peiss depicts the beauty trades that thrived until the 1920s, when corporations run by men entered the lucrative field, creating a mass consumer culture that codified modern feminity. Rich with the voices and experiences of ordinary women, "Hope in a Jar" is a major work of American history and an important and engaging contribution to the study of women's lives.

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For Appearance' Sake - Victoria Sherrow
ISBN: 1573562041
Publication Date: 2001-03-30
Are people today any more or less interested in looks than those who lived 100, 200, or 2,000 years ago? "For Appearances' Sake" answers that question and more as the first reference work to examine all aspects of beauty, body ornamentation, and grooming. More than 300 entries tell the story, from ancient times to the present, of the products, practices, and people that make beauty a multi-billion dollar industry. Quite different from reference works that focus on the how-to aspects of beauty, this volume is innovative for its historical and global approach to how people care for their appearance. Additionally, this encyclopedia takes a look at many of the attitudes and beliefs about body and appearance that pose challenging questions to society.

The Face of the Century - Kate de Castelbajac
ISBN: 0847818950
Publication Date: 1995-09-15
"Decade by decade, The Face of the Century offers a lively and thoughtful discussion in text and pictures of the impact of beauty on society. It analyzes changing social attitudes toward makeup, seen through the varied windows of Hollywood, fashion photography, art, music, theater, science, and advances in the cosmetics industry itself. The illustrations include high-style portraiture by photographers Beaton, Horst, Newton, and Testino, immortalizing such beauty icons as Mary Pickford, Catherine Deneuve, Josephine Baker, Twiggy, Elizabeth Taylor, and Nadja Auermann. Also included is and eclectic survey of advertisements for beauty products and accessories, from international magazines such as Vogue, Elle, Queen, Art, gout, beaute, and Harper's Bazaar."--BOOK JACKET.Title Summary field provided by Blackwell North America, Inc. All Rights Reserved

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The Artifice of Beauty - Sally Pointer
ISBN: 0750938870
Publication Date: 2005-05-01
Why did Egyptians wear so much makeup? Were the Vikings really unwashed barbarians? How did the fashionable Elizabethan deal with bathing, lice, and excessive facial hair? What happened underneath all that hairpowder and scented pomade in the 18th century? How did young women find out about the latest beauty products in the past? This fascinating and unique book traces the way in which we have adorned, perfumed, and presented ourselves from the earliest prehistoric evidence right through to the dawn of the multi-million dollar cosmetics industry. We discover what the perfumes found in Tutankhamen's tomb would have smelt like, what made the medieval woman so synonymous with "the lily and the rose," and where the most fashionable place was for a woman to buy perfume in the 18th century. In the 16th and 17th century the devil reputedly carried a looking glass, and the most expensive cosmetics could kill. A century later, Beau Brummel recommended the scent of freshly aired linen as an appropriate perfume for a gentleman, and Napoleon himself doused himself in quantities of cologne. This richly illustrated book also includes a wide selection of modernized recipes for those wishing to experience some of the cosmetics or perfumes used by our ancestors.

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Inventing Beauty - Teresa Riordan
ISBN: 0767914511
Publication Date: 2004-10-05
A history of the clothing, gadgets, and other products that were designed to promote female beauty is a tour of such innovations as hoop skirts, cosmetic surgery, face cream, and more, in a volume that also discusses the contributions of social trends and technological innovation. Original.

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Cosmetics, Fashions, and the Exploitation of Women - Joseph Hansen; Evelyn Reed; Mary-Alice Waters
ISBN: 0873486595
Publication Date: 1986-01-01
How big business plays on women's second-class status and social insecurities to market cosmetics and rake in profits. The introduction by Waters explains how the entry of millions of women into the workforce during and after World War II irreversibly changed U.S. society and laid the basis for a renewed rise of struggles for women's emancipation.“A lively and surprisingly timely historical lesson in the ever-raging controversy surrounding women, beauty, and oppression.”—Ms.Introduction by Mary-Alice Waters, photos, notes, index.

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Facing Beauty - Aileen Ribeiro
ISBN: 0300124864
Publication Date: 2011-11-29
Throughout the history of the Western world, countless attempts have been made to define beauty in art and life, especially with regard to women's bodies and faces. Facing Beauty examines concepts of female beauty in terms of the ideal and the real, investigating paradigms of beauty as represented in art and literature and how beauty has been enhanced by cosmetics and hairstyles.  This thought-provoking book discusses the shifting perceptions of female beauty, concentrating on the period from about 1540 to 1940. It begins with the Renaissance, when a renewed emphasis on the individual was reflected in the celebration of beauty in the portraits of the day. The fluid, sensual lines of the Baroque period initiated a shift toward a more "natural" look, giving way in the 18th century to a more stylized and artificial face, a mask of ideal beauty. By the late 19th century, commercial beauty preparations had become more readily available, leading to new technological developments within the beauty industry in the early 20th century. Beauty salons and the wider availability of cosmetics revolutionized the way women saw themselves.  Ravishing images of some of the most beautiful women in history, both real and ideal, accompanied by illustrations from costume books, fashion plates, advertisements, caricatures, and cosmetics, bring the evolving story of beauty to life.


Best and Worst Makeup Moments In History


Who Is Lisa Eldridge?


Lisa Eldridge is one of the most experienced and respected makeup artists on the international fashion and beauty circuits. Whether she’s called upon to create her signature look, best described as fresh and flawless, or to work her makeup magic for the catwalk or editorial shoots, her modern approach to beauty has made her indispensable to designers, editors, photographers, art directors and celebrities alike. 

Having previously lived and worked in Paris, New York and LA, Lisa is now based in London and works regularly with many of the world’s top fashion photographers including Mert & Marcus, Sølve Sunsbø, Patrick Demarchelier and David Sims, while her masterful makeup artistry has appeared on the pages of virtually every fashion magazine, including international publications such as VOGUE, ELLE, ALLURE, HARPER’S BAZAAR and LOVE.

The list of celebrities Lisa has made up reads like a who’s who of the world’s most glamorous stars, including Kate Winslet, Keira Knightley, Lily Collins, Kate Moss, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Emma Watson. Lisa has also collaborated with countless top fashion houses on their advertising campaigns and fashion shows, including Gucci, Chloé, Alberta Ferretti, Prada, Jil Sander, Donna Karan, Moschino and PPQ.

Having previously held creative directorships, ambassadorial and developmental roles for leading brands including Chanel, Shiseido and Boots No7, Lisa is currently global creative director of Lancôme, working across product development, advertising campaigns and digital strategy.

In October 2015, Lisa published her first book, Face Paint: The Story of Makeup, an accumulation of years of research into the history of makeup. The book quickly became a New York Times bestseller.

The first professional makeup artist with her own dot com, since the launch of Lisa’s award-winning website she has developed a large, global online following, while maintaining a high editorial profile. Continually quoted on the pages of the glossiest magazines, Lisa’s expertise has become highly prized, and she is now one of the most recognised faces in the beauty industry both in the UK and internationally. 

Biography by Karena Callen

Lisa Eldridge's Website


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